Armed with cheese, bread and wine from Arezzo , we wound our way past Cortona, dipping and weaving on narrow mountain roads toward Borgo di Vagli, some of which, I might confess, left me breathless.

Ninety minutes into our trip we caught a glimpse of 1000 year old castello La Rocca di Pierle and barely made out the narrow grass road leading toward our destination. Wooded and overgrown vegetation seemed somewhat daunting, but buttercups and wild violets, not to mention a fairy or two, lead the way toward the enchanting Borgo, nestled into the Tuscan hillside.

Imagine arriving to olive groves (and this is the most flavourful olive oil we have ever tasted… it is harvested, pressed and bottled on site) rosemary, wisteria canopies and total privacy. A 14th century hamlet, lovingly restored by Fulvio Di Rosa, this was an ambitious project, giving new life and dimension to ancient stone, original beams and tiered acreage.

Greeted by the gracious Stefania and Gianfranco, we were escorted past stone walls and age-worn steps and entered into a world of umber and mellow fresco comfort. Our living quarters for the next ten days was apartment number sixteen. The concept is open, feathered and elegant. With an open hearth, a new-age kitchen designed using original cement sinks, two bedrooms with baths and fine Busatti linens we took no time to settle in.

Leisurely mornings drinking strong Italian coffee were often shared with a friendly fox who ate and played with the Borgo cat.

Encouraging journeys to neighbouring Assisi and Pienza, and allowing time for delicious afternoon naps, family-style dinners served at 8 pm in the Borgo restaurant. Fine wine, good company and four or more courses of traditional Tuscan fare cooked in a kitchen featuring a brick oven was a wonderful finish to each day.

And of course, Limoncello, a favourite nightcap just before the great silence of the Tuscan country night.

We left for Florence saturated and blissfully overwhelmed. With so many reasons to return, I don’t need to make notes. I will remember.

Helen and Keith Jones
Port Dover Ontario
Canada